The decisions behind the numbers

Toileting problems are usually setup problems, and International Cat Care is direct that issues such as house soiling and stress-related illness are more likely when a cat does not have optimum toileting facilities indoors. The planner above gives you a count and a placement; this section explains why those defaults are what they are.

DecisionWorking defaultWhy
How many traysAt least one per cat, cleaned daily — add a spare in multi-cat homesThe OSU checklist sets one per cat as the floor, not the target
Open or coveredTry open first; if covered, remove the flapA closed tray holds odour in, and cats avoid a tray that already smells used
SizeLong enough to turn around and dig; large breeds need moreSmall hooded trays leave big cats unable to position themselves properly
PositionQuiet corner, clear exit, away from food and waterA tray with one exit in a busy spot feels like a trap when other cats share the house
Litter depth & cleaningDeep enough to dig; scoop at least dailyCleanliness is the single most reliable predictor of use

Once the setup is right, the routine is what maintains it — see litter box setup 101 for the full walkthrough and a realistic cleaning routine for the schedule. If a cat has already started going elsewhere, read cat peeing outside the litter box before changing anything else, because urinary problems need to be ruled out rather than managed with placement.

Sources: Choosing a litter tray for your cat (open vs covered trays, flaps, large breeds, soiling risk) and Basic Indoor Cat Needs (one box per cat, daily cleaning).

Before you use the result

Use the result as a starting point for observation and planning. Cats vary by age, body condition, temperament, medical history, and household setup.

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